EXPERT ADVICE
Questions You Should Ask a Clothier
Not all custom clothing is created equal. The term "custom" is often used loosely to describe everything from true bespoke tailoring to basic made-to-measure alterations. Before you invest in a custom wardrobe, ask these five questions to ensure you are getting the quality and service you expect.
1. Is this true bespoke or made-to-measure?
Made-to-measure takes a pre-existing pattern and alters it to your measurements. True bespoke involves drafting a unique pattern from scratch based on dozens of your specific measurements, accounting for posture, shoulder slope, and personal fit preferences. Ask if they are creating a pattern specifically for you.
2. Do you use full canvas construction?
The internal structure of a jacket dictates how it drapes and lasts. Cheaper suits are "fused" (glued), which can bubble over time. A quality bespoke suit uses a floating canvas—usually made of horsehair—that molds to your body over time, providing a natural drape and superior longevity.
3. Where are your fabrics sourced?
A great suit starts with great cloth. A reputable clothier should be transparent about their mills. Look for established European mills like Loro Piana, Zegna, Scabal, and Dormeuil. The clothier should also be able to explain the difference between fabric weights and weaves, and recommend what is appropriate for your climate and lifestyle.
4. How do you handle alterations after delivery?
A bespoke relationship doesn't end when the suit is delivered. Your body may change, or you may want minor adjustments after wearing the garment. Ask if they handle alterations locally, and if those adjustments are included in the initial process to perfect your pattern for future orders.
5. Will you help me build a wardrobe, or just sell me a suit?
A transactional salesperson wants to sell you a suit today. A professional clothier wants to understand your career, your social life, and your travel habits to build a cohesive wardrobe over time. They should ask questions about your lifestyle before they ever show you a fabric swatch.
Ready to start the conversation?
We invite you to ask us these questions and any others you might have during a private consultation.
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